Arriviamo!!!
The little port of Golfito turned out to be a pleasant surprise for all onboard. Golfito is a wonderfully protected natural harbor that's only a few kilometers away from the Costa Rican and Panamanian border. It was originally built by the United Fruit Company in the 1930s as a major export hub to escape the Atlantic coast, which was being ravaged by banana diseases that had devastated the region. Those days are long gone, and it's now a sleepy but quaint little town built right along the waterfront. We'd heard negative things about Golfito, but after spending a day and evening there, we felt they were unjust. There seems to be a bit of petty crime in the area, and word has traveled throughout the cruising fraternity and its reputation has suffered because of it. Spirit and her crew were welcomed at the Banana Bay Marina, where we enjoyed a nice shower, cold beer, and a meal. Within an hour of fastening the lines, a local fishermen had offered to sell us a couple of kilos of dorado and king prawns, which we quickly threw on ice in the esky. The following days, we ate well, turning it into everything from sushi to red curry and corn tortilla wraps. It was some of the best fish we've tasted in many years. The weather was looking favorable for the remaining 300 nautical miles down the coast and up into the Gulf or Panama and San Carlos. San Carlos was the location of the marina we were using to clear into Panama and is located about 40nm to the SW of Panama City and Canal. The following day, we set off from Golfito at around 14:30. Breeze was 10-15kts onshore, so we motored out of the bay before bearing away and unfurling the headsail, for a little extra push. There was a half-moon rising nicely so the night wasn't completely dark. The multitude of stars also helped to illuminate the decks, which we haven't had the pleasure of experiencing in over a year. It was such a nice change to be at sea again, surrounded by such beauty above. Hard to believe we lock ourselves inside at night and watch TV’s when there’s a world of wonderment above us shinning for free and asking nothing in return apart from one’s consciousness and attention. How did we ever lose sight of the beauty that constantly surrounds us and get consumed by the make believe? It was an uneventful evening, but the morning saw some small breeze that allowed us to keep the headsail working for a bit. Overall, the trip was mainly about getting to know the boat, her systems, and getting her safely to Panama. So, if there wasn't a breeze that pushed us at 5 knots, we had the engine running. It was a good overall test for the engine, and the brief sailing we did managed to test her ability on all points in 5-25kts of wind. All aboard were surprised at her turn of speed in the light. Considering her overall shape and that of her sails, it was impressive. 10-11 knots boat speed around 44 apparent in 12 knots true had her feeling nicely powered up. The Hammerhead have a low centre of effort thanks to the shorter rig and air draft (64ft) which was designed so they could cruise the US's Intracoastal Waterway. The lower power made it relaxing when we saw 24 knots true on the first half of the passage, she felt very secure, unlike old Spirit, who would have been hosing us with salt water and requesting all hands on deck and likely a reef taken soon. The two boats couldn't be more different in speed and volume, but we really feel like we've found the perfect balance for size, speed, and simplicity. The second day of the passage, we were around halfway and passing through a beautifully spectacular area called the Parque National de Isla Coiba. It's an old penal colony, and the rainforest covering the islands is so thick it looks like it's been dripped over similarly to icing on a cake. It was impressive to look through the binoculars and see each tree and plant fighting for sunlight and growing anyway they could. All the way down to the rocky waters edge was a deep green of vines and trees. Along the ridges large trees protruded individually like tall people in a line. The island looked like something out of Jurassic Park, dolphins swam beside us as we approached the island. Throughout the trip we saw loads of fish and bird life. The coasts here are teaming with life both in and out of the water but unfortunately in the more populated areas the destruction of natural habitats continues. Around 120 nautical miles further to our west, there was Punta Mala, well known for its strong southerly winds this time of year. The forecast didn't leave a lot of time, but it did give us a few hours to stop for a swim. Water was nice and clear, and Clo and I managed to scrape away a few barnacles while checking the prop, rudder and centreboard for issues. We had close friends Paul and Denisse and their daughter Amaia onboard for the trip down, and they snorkeled around the boat, taking pics of Spirit's underbelly and spotting things on the bottom 12 feet below. Paul cooked a wicked lunch of dorado as we headed west for Punta Mala. After three hours or so, the breeze filled in and gave us a few lovely hours of fantastic sailing while we had an afternoon aperitif of Italian delights. This is when Spirit sat on 10s in 12s. The angle was good, and the seas smooth, and she loved it. There’s solid potential there and I think this old girl will end up surprising a few people. That evening we ran along the southern coast before passing Punta Mala early the next morning where we changed course to the north and into a solid 18-21 knots that were on the nose for the rest of the 55 nautical miles into the Gulf of Panama. Spirit handled the headwinds and short chop well. It's never comfortable motoring into 20 knots, so we flapped about a bit, but it was pretty good considering the sloppy conditions and short waves. Overall, Spirit did great, and her crew were awesome. It was a gift to be able to share the trip with close friends, and it's why we looked for a larger boat. The layout and the way the boat works is just right. At one stage, there were three of us cooking in the galley, and still, loads of room. Having separate cabins, one aft and one forward, gives ample space and privacy, and the aft cabin is like a separate cabin all alone. When on passage, those sleeping there are close at hand, and once at anchor, they have their own private area to relax and rest in and the kings sized bed is truly a treat. The layout is super cool! Around 17:30 Spirit was finally all fast at Vista Mar and her crew was enjoying a nice cold and well-earned beer and wine. Overall it was a super 500nm first passage. We had zero issues and the sails made it until the end. Spirit proved she sails well and is a joy to live on at sea with friends aboard. Not sure we could have ever asked for a better way to start a new year! Best wishes to all from Clo and I. That was a lot longer than I had planned, so I hope I didn't put people to sleep, but as you can probably tell, Clo and I are super stoked to be back on the water with Spirit.
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Spirit and her crew sailed into Golfo Dulce a large bay on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast that borders with Panama around 11pm on January 2nd after an awesome 40hr passage down from Papagayo Marina. We’d departed the prior day January 1st at 7am local time and covered the 260nm at an average speed of just over 6.5kts. Weather was picture perfect for the passage however a bit more wind would have been nice. Unfortunately we motored a majority of the way but did manage to get a few hours of sailing in as clouds past above us or we rounded headlands and found some breeze.
When we did manage to sail Spirit went great and we couldn’t have asked for more, she’s slippery and makes good time in little wind. The first passage of a boat that was in Spirits condition is always a cautionary one. So many changes had been made and there were so many unknowns that it was hard not to be a touch nervous. All that had been done was a sea trial for a few hours before purchase and that was our only time onboard and underway so we had no idea how she’d handle being at sea. Obviously we had a lot to learn and a boat to get to know. Never once did Spirit faulter and even though she’s still got a long way to go and is very rough around the edges she showed great potential and impressed all. After a day and evening spent in Golfito we’re now ready to clear out and head another 300nm further south and around the corner to Panama. In Panama we’ll do some more jobs to ready Spirit for her pacific crossing come April. Being back at sea is such a wonderful gift. It gives one the time reflect upon one’s own thoughts. This time allows you to filter out the noise of the world and to focus on what’s truly important, how precious life is and how lucky we are to be born and to experience it. As a wise man once said……… "The secret of happiness is freedom and the secret of freedom is courage." Best wishes to all for 2024 It’s four months now that we’ve been in Costa Rica and the time has flown! The past three months since we’ve moved onboard have passed especially quick and now we can’t believe that Christmas is only a few days away.
Claudia and I would like to take this opportunity to wish everyone a wonderful Christmas. We hope that santa brings everyone what they deserve and more and that everyone has a wonderful festive season and a ripper of a year in 2024. The past three months have been crazy busy here with a jobs list that seemed to grow at a rate of knots that we couldn’t keep up with. Only now do we feel as though we’re getting somewhere and actually eating away at the list. Jobs like sealing holes around wire exit points in decks, de-coring and filling around the deck inspection plates, removing redundant wires, installing new alternator and rewiring the engine harness, removing the old solar panels and installing new ones, changing out the exhaust pipe, re-plumbing the forward head, wiping out the fuel tanks and rewiring the boats 24v system and installing a victron shunt and distribution system to diving and swapping the prop for a new one, rig checks, sail cleaning, re-sealing all the hatches and windows the list goes on and on!! It’s been stupid busy but we’ve been having a ball bringing Spirit back to life. She was definitely aimed at a point of no return and we feel very fortunate to have found her when we did. Clo and I cant wait for 2024 and the adventures it’ll bring. Here’s a few pics from the last few weeks showing where we are and a link to the latest video that Clo has done. Best wishes to all from Claudia and I. The crazy restoration of trimaran Spirit - Exterior works https://youtu.be/UjTRwNhaMHc It’s been eight weeks since we moved onboard Spirit and it’s been a pretty intensive eight weeks. Our focus so far is on getting her ready for sea and things have been progressing well. The jobs list is slowly getting shorter and we’re getting less and less to think about. As you knock jobs off the list its a great feeling as the heavy weight of a consumed mind slowly fades into dreams of where you are heading and the adventures that lay ahead.
As most know we are firm believers in less equals more and focusing on needs not wants. Our plan is to strip Spirit back to the bare minimum. Obviously thats all relative to each person as if you live in a tent our minimum isn’t so minimum but if you live normally with all the mods cons our minimum certainly is minimum. We will rid her of every bit of excess weight and complexity and she in the end will be the raw form of efficient sailing for a life upon the sea. I’ve put a few pics below to show some of the progress we’ve made and have tried to take before and after photos to give everyone an idea of how she was and how she is now. As always best wishes to all and we hope you have a wonderful weekend and for those US based folks happy thanks giving! Who's Spirit?
The life of a boat begins long before it sets sail. Its inception is typically sparked by some form of inspiration to create something unique. Ultimately, it all starts in the mind of a creative individual or someone we commonly refer to as a "doer" – those who do. The new Spirit was brought to life by the well-known doer and designer, Chris White, best known for his Atlantic range of performance catamarans. Similar to the Atlantic catamarans, the Hammerhead trimarans have proven themselves over nearly 30 years, sailing the world's oceans and completing numerous circumnavigations. Chris designed her, but it was Bill Shuman who brought her to life, launching her in Wells, Maine in 1995. The exact start date of her construction is not entirely known, but according to the article below, she was launched on October 9th, 1995, or possibly 1996. At the time of her launch, she was named "Hammerhead" and spent her initial years as Bill's personal boat, extensively sailing between Florida, The Bahamas, and the northeastern United States. After "Hammerhead," I believe she was known as "Shimoda." This name was used from the early 2000s until around 2007, when we believe she was sold and renamed "Hecla." She retained the name "Hecla" until approximately 2010 when she was purchased and renamed "Avalanche." In her later years, she was heavily cruised under the name "Shimoda" and raced intensively with two singlehanded trans-Pacific crossings as "Hecla." The fourth owner didn't spare her, subjecting her to high-latitude sailing and numerous ocean passages. It's evident that this big Spirit possesses a solid foundation and comes from a reputable designer. However, she is tired and has endured neglect in recent years. We have found a considerable amount of work that needs to be done to restore her to her former glory, but nothing appears to be structural or a show stopper. The task only requires time, effort, and $$. There’s no fooling ourselves by how much work is involved but we know that over time and with some good people helping us along the way it’s something that can be done and at the same time it’ll be rewarding above measure to breath some new life into this beautiful boat. She has so much potential to become something truly amazing, she already is but with some minor mods to her sail plan and structure she’ll reach another level and we’re super excited to share her evolution. Below, you will find some pictures of her launch that we were fortunate to receive from an old friend of Bill's. There's also a video of her sailing in her early days shortly after her launch, with Bill at the helm and Chris White behind the camera. I believe that's a close friend of Bill's Joan sitting there calmly as they sit on 18-19 knots, reaching out to Nantucket. Enjoy and best wishes to all from Clo and I. Design details. Chris White - Hammerhead 54 LOA : 54ft BOA : 34ft Disp : 17,000lbs - 7.8t Board down - 9ft Board up - 3ft Rudder up - 2ft Shaft driven Yanmar 4JH 52HP Dual capacity : 370lts Water capacity: 530lts Sail area : 180sqm Rig height : 64ft above water https://youtu.be/TOWM1lJyoqE?si=Qv0j_gwz8jE1IbN4 Nearly four years ago, on this very day, we received the deposit for the sale of Spirit, and here we sit aboard the new Spirit in Costa Rica. The journey to reach this point has been far from simple and straightforward.
The decision to part with Spirit wasn't an easy one; it took us well over a year of deliberation before we finally decided to list her for sale. Spirit held a special place in our hearts. She had provided Clo and I with the perfect vessel for performance cruising, and we had invested a substantial amount of time, effort, and money as her custodians. However, her limited volume was an issue that, no matter how hard we tried, could not be rectified without compromising everything that made her unique. People who know us well understand that we are deep thinkers. We invest a lot of thought into our motivations and the potential impact of our decisions on our lives. Our goal in doing this is to eliminate emotion and approach our choices with a clear and unbiased mindset, considering what we are trying to accomplish, why we are pursuing it, and how it will affect our lifestyle. The same thoughtful process guided us here, and after numerous hours of discussion, we concluded that all we desired was more space. We didn't crave extravagance; we simply yearned for a larger version of Spirit—a minimalist boat that would provide us with comfortable living space and the capacity to share this incredible lifestyle with friends and family. Understanding our needs was the easy part; the challenge lay in finding a boat that aligned with our goal of efficiency, performance, minimalism and increased volume. This is why it took us four years to reach this day. Although it may not appear so, over the past four years, we explored various types of boats worldwide, from the TS/ORC's by Marsaudon to Outremers, Eric Larouges, Crowthers, and a few other unique designs. Yet, none of them checked all the boxes and felt right. It seems that, these days, most designers and builders are focused on complexity and we find this bizarre as it takes one away from the entire essence of sailing. Another objective was to find a second-hand boat. We've always believed that there's an abundance of boats in the world. You only need to stroll through one of the thousands of marinas to see how many languish unused, deteriorating, and unloved. Part of the satisfaction and reward of owning Spirit was giving her a new lease on life, something Clo and I fully understood. We recognized that, like all things in life, you get out of a boat what you put into it. If you want to be healthy, you need to work on it. If you want to learn something new, you need to put in the effort. Similarly, if you want a boat that reflects your values and brings you satisfaction, you must invest in it. Nothing in life is free, including the gratification and reward of boat ownership. Buying something new felt somewhat uninspiring and effortless, so a second-hand boat became our target, allowing us to make it our own while experiencing the satisfaction of breathing new life into it. After spending a week aboard the new Spirit, I can confidently say that we have achieved our objectives and more. We've found a boat that has received no love for the past decade. I understand the previous owners may disagree, but in the upcoming months and years, we hope to share with you the challenges and triumphs of reviving an unloved and neglected second-hand boat. Our ultimate goal in sharing this journey is to inspire others to consider older boats. Marinas worldwide are dotted with vessels in need of care and attention, and it's disheartening to see so many boats not fulfilling their intended purpose. As you can see from the pics below the new Spirit is making us earn that gratification. Welcome Aboard! |